How to Dismantle a Recliner Chair for Moving — Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Moving house with a recliner chair — or simply relocating it to a different room — is one of the more challenging furniture-moving tasks in any UK home. Recliner chairs are heavy, awkward and rarely fit through a standard doorway in their assembled state due to the mechanism adding height and depth to the frame. The good news is that most recliner chairs are specifically designed to be partially dismantled: the back separates from the seat, making the chair significantly easier to move without causing damage to the chair or the walls. This guide covers every step — from preparation through to reassembly — for manual, electric and rise-and-recliner chairs.

How to dismantle a recliner chair: Most recliner chairs have removable backs attached via locking levers or keyhole brackets on each side. Tip the chair forward, locate the two release levers where the back meets the seat frame, press or lift both simultaneously, and the back lifts away. The seat/footrest section moves separately. For electric recliners, disconnect power before starting. Always use two people.

Before you start: Check your specific model — some recliner chairs are not designed for back removal and forcing the mechanism will damage it. If you have your chair's assembly instructions, check these first. If in doubt, call us on 02476 705 600 and we can advise on your specific model.

Recliner Chair Types — How Dismantling Differs

Not all recliner chairs dismantle in exactly the same way. Understanding your chair type tells you what to expect before you start.

Manual Recliner Chair

Easiest to dismantle

A side lever or push-back mechanism controls the recline. No power cable. The back removes via the standard locking lever process.

Dismantling: Back removal only. No cable to manage. Lightest of all recliner types (50–75kg assembled). Most straightforward to move in two sections.

Electric Recliner Chair

Moderate — cable management required

A motor and handset controls the recline and sometimes the headrest. Connected to a UK mains plug. The back removes using the same lever mechanism as a manual recliner — the motor stays with the seat section.

Dismantling: Disconnect and secure the power cable before any movement. Back removal as standard. Motor and wiring stay with the seat — handle carefully to avoid damage to the cable.

Rise and Recliner Chair

Moderate — heavier, lift mechanism

Contains both a lift mechanism (tilts the seat forward to assist standing) and a recliner motor. The heaviest recliner type — typically 85–110kg. Back removal as standard.

Dismantling: Disconnect power before starting. Use the lift function to raise the seat before disconnecting — this positions the seat higher for easier handling at the base. Two people are non-negotiable for this weight class.

Recliner Sofa (2 or 3 Seater)

Different process — see notes

A sofa with built-in recliner mechanisms at one or both ends. Not the same as a single chair. The sofa does not separate into individual recliner seats.

Dismantling: Most recliner sofas have detachable feet (unscrew from base), some have removable headrests. The sofa is moved as a single piece — plan doorway access carefully. Electric versions require power disconnection before moving.

Before You Start — Safety and Preparation Checklist

Pre-Dismantling Checklist

• ☐ Found your chair's assembly or delivery instructions if available
• ☐ Confirmed whether your specific model has a removable back (check for levers on the rear lower sides of the backrest)
• ☐ Arranged a second person — do not attempt to move a recliner chair alone
• ☐ Cleared the path from the chair's current position to its destination — remove rugs, cables, pets and any trip hazards
• ☐ Measured the doorways on the route (see doorway guide below)
• ☐ Laid a moving blanket or cardboard on the floor in front of the chair to protect upholstery when tilting
• ☐ For electric/rise-and-recliner: power cable unplugged from the wall socket
• ☐ Handset and remote secured — not left dangling where it can be caught or dropped
• ☐ Zip-lock bag ready for any screws or fixings removed during the process

Tools You Will Need

Tool	Used For	Essential?
Flathead screwdriver	Lever mechanisms on some models, prying plastic covers	Recommended
Phillips head screwdriver	Foot removal screws on some designs, base attachments	Recommended
Torch or phone light	Seeing beneath the chair and inside the base to locate levers	Yes — essential
Moving blankets (x2)	Protecting upholstery during tilting and transport — one for the floor, one to wrap sections	Yes — essential
Furniture wrap / stretch film	Wrapping and securing the back and seat sections during transport	Recommended
Furniture straps or bungee cords	Securing the footrest in the closed position during transit	Recommended
Cable ties or tape	Securing the power cable and handset to the frame during transit	Electric chairs only
Zip-lock bags	Storing any screws or fixings removed during dismantling	Yes — label them
A second person	Essential for safe tilting and carrying	Absolutely essential

Step-by-Step: How to Remove the Back from a Recliner Chair

This guide covers the standard back-removal process that applies to most recliner chairs sold in the UK. Electric and rise-and-recliner chairs follow the same steps with additional preparation — see the dedicated sections below.

1. Return the chair to fully upright. Operate the chair through its full recline cycle and return completely to the upright position. The mechanism is designed to release in the upright position — attempting release when semi-reclined can make the levers much harder to operate.

2. Place a moving blanket on the floor in front of the chair. You are about to tilt the chair forward — the blanket protects both the upholstery and the floor from scratching. Use a thick blanket or fold a duvet — the front of the chair will rest on this.

3. With your second person, tilt the chair forward onto its front. One person supports the backrest, the other holds the base. Tilt the chair forward slowly and gently until it rests on the blanket with its base facing upward. This exposes the underside and rear of the seat frame where the back attachment points are located.

4. Use your torch to locate the back attachment points. Look for two metal locking levers, clips or keyhole brackets on either side of the frame, at the points where the backrest frame meets the seat frame. The exact design varies by manufacturer — you are looking for a mechanism that is clearly designed to release.

5. Understand the release action before attempting. Most UK recliner chairs use one of three release mechanisms:

• Pull-up lever: A metal lever that lifts upward to release the back bracket from its slot
• Push-down lever: A spring-loaded lever that presses downward to release
• Keyhole slot: The back bracket slides upward out of a keyhole slot with no lever — simply lift the back section once the chair is tilted

6. Release both levers simultaneously. With your second person holding the backrest steady, simultaneously operate both levers in the correct direction. Both must release at the same time — releasing one at a time usually results in the back rocking but not releasing. The back should then lift cleanly away from the seat with minimal resistance.

7. Lift the back section away and set aside safely. Lean the back section against a wall face-in (upholstery facing the wall) or lay it flat. The seat/footrest section is now a separate, significantly lighter and more manageable piece.

8. Check the footrest. Before moving the seat section, use a furniture strap or bungee cord to hold the footrest in its closed position. An unsecured footrest can spring open during transport, making the seat section much more difficult to manoeuvre and potentially causing injury.

Electric Recliner Chair — Additional Steps

An electric recliner chair has the same back-release mechanism as a manual chair, but the motor, transformer and wiring require specific handling before and during the move.

1. Disconnect power from the wall socket first — not just switch off. Pull the plug from the socket. Do not attempt to move any part of an electric recliner while it remains plugged in.

2. Coil and secure the power cable. Coil the mains cable neatly and use a cable tie or tape to fix it to the chair frame — do not leave it trailing. The cable exits from the base or side of the seat section and should be fixed so it cannot catch on the floor or staircase during moving.

3. Secure the handset. The control handset is connected to the chair by a wire. Tuck it inside the seat cushion or tape it flat to the chair frame during transport — a dangling handset is easily damaged if it catches on a doorframe.

4. Remove the back using the standard lever process. The motor stays with the seat section. Handle the seat section carefully — the transformer and motor are underneath the seat and are not fragile but should not be knocked against hard surfaces.

5. After moving: reconnect power only once the chair is in its final position. Test all functions before sitting — recline, footrest and headrest (if applicable) should all operate smoothly. If anything feels stiff or unusual after the move, check that no cable has been kinked or caught before calling for service.

Rise and Recliner Chair — Additional Considerations

Rise and recliner chairs contain a more substantial lift mechanism and are the heaviest recliner type. The process is the same as a standard electric recliner with two additional considerations.

1. Use the lift function before disconnecting power. While still plugged in, use the lift function to raise the seat to its highest position. This moves the heavier front of the seat upward, which makes the chair slightly easier to handle at the base once power is disconnected. Then disconnect power.

2. Check for a battery backup compartment. Some rise-and-recliner chairs have a battery backup pack (typically a 9V battery clip) that allows the chair to operate during a power cut. Remove this battery during transit if possible — it prevents accidental activation and the associated weight shift. Reinstall after the move.

3. Two people are non-negotiable. A rise-and-recliner chair at 85–110kg assembled (seat section alone 60–80kg once back removed) is too heavy for one person to handle safely at any stage of the move.

4. Do not slide a rise-and-recliner chair across hard floors. The lift mechanism's weight creates pressure points on the base that can scratch wood and laminate flooring significantly. Always lift — never drag — a rise-and-recliner chair.

Getting a Recliner Chair Through a Doorway

The most common reason for dismantling a recliner is that it will not fit through a doorway in its assembled state. Here is how to approach the problem.

Measure Before You Move

Standard UK internal doorway width (clear opening)72–80cm

Standard recliner chair width (assembled)85–100cm

Standard recliner chair height (upright, with back)100–115cm

Typical width of seat section alone (back removed)80–90cm

Typical height of seat section alone (back removed)55–65cm

Typical width of back section alone70–85cm

In most cases, removing the back section is enough to get both sections through a standard doorway independently. Here are additional techniques for tight access points:

• Tilt the seat section diagonally. A rectangular object that will not pass through a doorway upright will often fit when tilted at 45 degrees and moved through on an angle — the diagonal measurement is always greater than either the width or height alone.
• Try the chair in its reclined position. A fully reclined chair has a different height-to-depth ratio than an upright one. Sometimes a chair that will not pass through a doorway upright will fit when reclined and moved through horizontally.
• Remove the door from its hinges. This is a 10-minute job and adds 3–5cm of clearance — often just enough. Use a screwdriver or hammer and nail punch to tap the hinge pins upward out of the hinges. The door can be rehung in minutes after the chair is through.
• Remove the chair feet. Many recliner chairs have small plastic or wooden feet that screw into the base. Removing these reduces the chair's height by 5–10cm and can be the difference between fitting and not fitting.

Protecting the Chair During a Move

Recliner chairs are expensive and their upholstery is vulnerable to scuffing, tearing and staining during a move. Take five minutes to protect the chair properly — it is far cheaper than reupholstering or replacing.

• Wrap both sections separately in moving blankets. Pay particular attention to the armrests, corners and any exposed metal on the backrest frame — these are the most vulnerable areas during transit.
• Use stretch furniture wrap over the blankets. Several layers of stretch wrap over the moving blanket holds the blanket in place and adds a waterproof outer layer.
• Secure the footrest. Use a furniture strap or bungee cord around the seat section to hold the footrest closed during transit. An open footrest adds 50–60cm to the depth of the seat section and catches on everything.
• Stand sections upright in the van where possible. The seat section can stand on its base. The backrest section should stand upright or lay flat — never lean it against other objects unsupported, as the frame can bend under its own weight if stored at an angle for extended periods.
• Do not stack heavy items on top of recliner sections. The upholstery and foam beneath the fabric compresses under heavy loads and may not fully recover.

Reassembling the Recliner Chair

Reassembly is the reverse of the removal process — and takes about 5 minutes once both sections are in position.

1. Position the seat section in its final location first. It is much easier to bring the back to the seat than to move the assembled chair once the back is attached. Position and level the seat before reattaching the back.

2. Line up the back attachment brackets with the receivers on the seat frame. The bracket locations on the backrest should match the receiver slots on the seat exactly. If they do not line up easily, check that neither section is twisted — the back should feel natural to hold in position above the seat frame.

3. Lower the back section down firmly. Drop the back gently but with purpose — you should hear and feel a click as the locking mechanism engages on both sides simultaneously.

4. Test the connection before sitting. Pull back firmly on the top of the backrest. It should have no movement or play. If it rocks or feels loose, lift the back off and reattach — the mechanism has not engaged fully on one or both sides.

5. Reconnect power (electric chairs). Plug in the power cable. Test all functions — recline, footrest raise and lower, headrest (if applicable), rise function (if applicable). If the chair was in the raised position when power was disconnected, it may return to the normal seated position automatically when power is restored.

6. Reinstall battery backup (if removed). Reconnect the battery backup clip if you removed it during transit. Test the emergency lowering function if your model has one.

When the Chair Cannot Be Dismantled

Some recliner chairs — particularly older designs, certain budget models, or chairs with non-standard construction — do not have a removable back. If your chair has no visible release lever or bracket after careful inspection, do not force the back section.

Alternative moving options:

• Measure the chair when fully reclined. In its reclined position, the chair's height and depth profile changes. Sometimes it will fit through a doorway in the reclined position that it cannot pass through upright — try moving it sideways through the door at full recline.
• Remove the door from its hinges. As above — 3–5cm of extra clearance is often enough for a fixed-back chair to pass through with careful angling.
• Unscrew the chair feet. Reduces height by 5–10cm. Many budget and older models have screw-in feet.
• Engage a furniture removal specialist. Professional movers deal with awkward furniture regularly and have equipment — furniture dollies, stair walkers, removal straps — that make moving a fixed-back recliner significantly safer and easier.
• Check the manufacturer's documentation. Some models that appear to be fixed back have a less obvious release mechanism. Contact Furniture Instore on 02476 705 600 or the manufacturer directly — a model-specific guide may exist.

Troubleshooting — When Something Does Not Work as Expected

Back levers release on one side but not the other. The most common issue. Both levers must release simultaneously — if one releases before the other, the back pivots rather than lifting. Get your second person to hold the back steady while you focus on operating both levers at exactly the same moment.

The levers move but the back does not lift. The back brackets are likely still seated in the receiver slots. After releasing both levers, the back needs to be lifted upward — it does not fall away on its own. Lift while the levers are held released.

The lever does not move at all. Check the direction — some levers lift, others push down. Also check that the chair is fully upright; the mechanism is hardest to operate in a semi-reclined position. If a lever still will not move with gentle pressure, do not force it — contact us on 02476 705 600.

The back does not click into place on reassembly. The brackets are not aligned with the receivers. Lift the back off completely, check both bracket positions on the backrest frame match both receiver positions on the seat frame, and try again. If one bracket has slipped or bent, straighten it gently before reattaching.

Electric chair functions do not work after reassembly. Check the power cable is fully seated in the wall socket and that there are no kinks in the cable near the base. Check the handset connection — some models have a plug connection between the handset and the chair that can work loose during transit. If the handset shows no response, check the fuse in the mains plug.

Storing a Dismantled Recliner Chair

If you need to store the chair after dismantling — during a house move, renovation or between properties — follow these guidelines to ensure it comes out of storage in the same condition it went in.

• Store in a dry, temperature-stable environment. Damp garages, unheated sheds and basement storage units can cause moisture damage to the upholstery, foam padding and metal mechanism. A dry interior storage unit or a heated garage is far better.
• Keep the back section upright or flat. Do not store the backrest leaning at an acute angle for extended periods — the frame can distort slightly under its own weight in an unsupported position.
• Cover both sections. Use furniture covers, old sheets or the original packaging if still available. This protects against dust, accidental scuffs and moisture.
• Label and store all fixings together. Put any removed screws, feet or fixings in a zip-lock bag and tape or attach it to the chair. A fixing that goes missing during storage can delay reassembly significantly.
• Do not store heavy items on top of the sections. The foam in recliner chair cushions compresses under sustained weight and may not fully recover.

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